.... Journal.
April 2003

This is an account of our walk across the North of England following Wainwright's Coast to Coast route. It is a journal that we both tried to add to at the end of each day. My entries are in bold and Claire's are in normal type. If you run your mouse over the underlined text, a related photo will appear in the box to the right. Clicking on the underlined text will open a larger version of the picture in a new window.

Enjoy!

Day Zero – 1st April


Train from New Street to Carlisle. Carlisle smells of dog poo. Claire V. excited, not necessarily about the smell of dog poo just the trip in general. After 2 weeks of glorious weather, sky looks ver dark. Another little train to St Bees. We get off train, start walking, heavens open, waterproofs come out. We walk up and along the headland. V. nice. Sun come out. Sweating starts. Waterproofs come off. “Claire look at that fast moving fog coming this way”. “Oh dear” Waterproofs back on, hail comes down. Spot lighthouse and realise it’s not far. Go to beach (Fleswick) in sunshine, Climb out in rain. Passed St Bees Lighthouse and arrived @ TarnFlatt Hall. Paid £4 each for bunkhouse. Fairly meagre with “cooking slab” but did have shower. Now 18.20 and waiting for pasta and sausage.
Height gained = 140m
Distance = 4 miles
Predicted Pikkachu = 11000
Actual Pikkachu = 15300 (include Carlisle + home + trains)

Not much else for me to say. Took a long time to get here. Boots are comfortable at the moment. Carlisle really did smell bad, but saw all the sights – train station, Woolworth’s, Edinburghe Woolen Mill, bit like Wells but plus a train station! It did rain on us a few times…but never lasted more than 5 minutes. 5 star hotel tonight!! Food smelling good, Dave’s gone to get a fire going!! Breakfast: Hot-Cross buns Lunch: Chicken sandwiches (really good) Tea: sausage + tom + herbs Hairstyle – ponytail Sore foot rating – 0

Day One. Sandwith to Ennerdale Bridge


After a night on a really hard floor, tea and porridge went down a treat! Set off full backpacks at about 8.30, an hour and half after getting up. Beautiful day for walking, right wind + sun! Quite a lot of road between Sandwith and Cleator. Thought found a place to answer Dave’s constant need for a cuppa, but no such luck. From Cleator it was up hill to the top of Dent (352m) which had our first bit of UP! It wasn’t gentle. Our last view of the sea from the top and our first really good view of the mountains. Lunch called for…out of the wind. A well deserved Pork Pie I think Dave thought. We then dropped just as steeply out/off down through forest. The lovely CtoC signs let us down slightly here as we navigated the twist along the river. A bit of a roadside walk into Ennerdale bridge to finish the day off, but only after a really good view of tomorrows valleys. Campsite is empty, I think setting the trend till the weekend. A very early tea, by the river. Later followed by a pint or 2 in the local hotels pub.
Breakfast: porridge
Lunch: Seeded bread, H+C sand, Pork pies.
Tea: Couscous, Bacon, Toms, Mango.
Hairstyle French Platt
Foot Rating: 1

Distance = 11 miles
Height = 450 metres
Predicted Pikkachu = 25000
Actual Pikkachu = 28000
A fairly easy day, I thought. My ankle hurt a bit though ad I felt all wussy. Complained. Claire made Breakfast, lunch and dinner. I errrm…found some fresh water mussels. “We are doing it”

He really did complain! Well not like a baby! Dave spent the day with the left side of his hair looking like some animal had been lying on it. Imagine how he felt to have his quiff half ruined!

Day Two – Ennerdale Bridge to Stonethwaite


Up at 7am and away by 8.30. Tent wet but we were dry. Pulled out the big pills and dealt with my ankle. I was worried the pills were a bit too strong when I saw a red squirrel, but Claire saw it too. We kept on trekking past Robin Hoods Chair along Ennerdale Water. Claire spotted some other Coast to Coasters behind us so put us into a route march. They turned out to be using B+B, so we let them pass. Lightweights. The forestry plantation occupied us for the rest of the morning and into past lunch tiredness. At Black Sails Youth Hostel, I took my first CtoC dump and then, like a hot and air balloon after shooting ballast, I floated up and over Loft Beck, dragging Claire over in my wake. Up near Grey Knotts we looked back to see not only the beautiful Ennerdale, but also Scafell Pike behind Great Gable. Kirk Fell. Pillar, Over to Grasmoor, down onto Buttermere and Crummock Water and even beyond to the Irish Sea and into the distance Scotland. Better than Ibuprofen. We then trudged down into Seatoller for our first tea shop (nice cake). Overdue but expensive. Then fat on cake, we staggered on to another campsite in Stonethwaite below Eagle Crag.
Distance = 15 miles
Height = 525 metres
Predicted Pikkachu = 33000
Actual Pikkachu = 38000

Day went slow at parts through the forest, but as the cloud had lifted just before to give a fantastic view of Ennerdale water, I’ll forgive. Not so much wind today, but kept up a plod for most of day. Fastest bit being when followed and up the hill, both by my lead! At the top were the mist fantastic views. At the bottom really good tea and cake. Campsite river side again, starting to feel spoilt, is lovely. (though toilets not to be spoken about). Thought should risk some washing. Couple of pints in today’s local well deserved!
Breakfast: porridge
Lunch: Gd sandwiches again
Tea: sausage + beans with smash fried onion + bisto (umm)
Hairstyle; ponytail bun
Foot rating: 4

Day 3. Stonethwaite – Grasmere and then some!


Got up at 6am with a slower start with taking 2 hours to get the tent down. While lying in the tent I thought it would rain, little did I know! When we finally got going we had to get across the river, the footbridge didn’t seem to exist, so we started on the stepping stone idea, still took sometime, with Dave making hard work of it, while I took a slightly easier route. From then on it was up. Walking left of the river + Eagles Crag. Then up + behind lining Crag. We got an amazing view at Green up edge over looking the valley in the sunshine. From there a windy walk to Calf Crag and along. Although windy we were roasty in the sun. We’d found the right path and not gone down the wrong valley. We enjoyed the walk along Gibson Knott over onto Helm Crag + down into Grasmere. Arriving for a well deserved lunch, while we decided to stay. After a long lunch we discovered no campsites near + the YHAs really expensive. So C2C take 2 days to Patterdale IF YOUR NOT CAMPING. Spent a lot of time on the grass after that I got the food while Dave lay down. Really nice to be relaxed with the baking sun. Got all our stuff together + walked down Grasmere, looking for a place to pitch out tent. Dave’s looking now. We plan to cook and when dark pitch our tent. It absolutely fantastic here by the lake. And it been a truly lovely day, although frustrating at times.
Breakie: Porridge
Lunch: Paninies-lovely. Salad
Tea: New potatoes and chicken curry
Plus: ice cream, bath buns, GINGERBREAD
Hairstyle: Pigtails plaits
Foot Rating: 5

How can there be no camp sites or even bunk barns in Grasmere? Claire and I slogged our guts out to get here by 1pm today. They should have welcomed us with open arms, blown trumpets, massaged our steaming bodies. But no. The anti-tent attitudes of Grasmere brought a sour taste to my gingerbread. However, it all seems to have turned out fine, largely due to Claire who did everything to placate my frustrated bad mood- even walking extra miles on sore feet. (she just took the lid off the curry pan and excuse me if I stop now).
Miles: 8 miles [10]
Ascent= approx 600m
Predicted Pikkachu @ Grasmere = 21000
Actual Pikkachu @ Grasmere = 23000

Day 4. Grasmere to Patterdale via St Sunday Crag


After a good night’s sleep at our illicit campsite, we stowed the tent and sat down at the southern tip of Grasmere for porridge and tea. We then trudged into Grasmere Village, pausing only to dump, dump our rubbish, phone Claire’s Mum and pick up more pain relief [30g cuprofen Gel, Ibuprofen]. For the entire morning, we toiled up past Little Tongue and up to Grisedale Tarn for a lunch and inquisitive duck. By way of culture, we went in search of the Parting Stone, only to find that time had worn down the inscription. We then weighed up the alternative routes down to Patterdale. Straight seemed too easy despite the 500 metres we had already climbed. Helvelyn was too hard, the presence if a rescue helicopter over striding edge helped make up our minds against this. We chose St Sundays Crag and at 840m, it took a fair bit of effort. A good few “pack offs” later we were there. As far as I can tell, it will be the highest point on our C2C walk. After a gruelling descent, we found our intended campsite closed but, yet again, my fizzy head companion came to the rescue and gave the order for a cold beer stop at the lawn of the Patterdale Hotel. Totally refreshed I went off scouting for a campsite and we ended up at side farm with decent toilets, showers and washer and driers. First shower since Tuesday and the possibility of washing and drying clothes, if we can get the machine to work.
Distance = approx 12 miles
Ascent = 900m
Predicted Pikkachu = 27000
Actual Pikkachu = 29000

With finally getting to bed at 11pm I’m glad my clothes are at least dry.
Breakie: Porridge by Grasmere
Lunch: Nice rolls, duck watching
Tea: Rice, chicken chinesed (late)
Hairstyle: Ballet Bun
Foot Rating: 4 ( ankle don’t mention)

Day 5. Patterdale to Shap


A very early morning when I got to bed at 11pm, though I was dozing for hours before that. 6am up, 8am leave, passing the farm and the little girl with the big teddy. From there it was pretty much up to Boardale Hause and then onto Angletarn Pikes. A stop for choccy biscuits well deserved at 9.20am, especially at the grand height of 1500ft and still a little more up. At Satura Crag we started to meet lots more people, then a cut round the Knott and round Kidsty Pike, for our last look at the Lakeland and a forward look to Limestone country. Of course this was the perfect place to finish off the Grasmere gingerbread. From Kidsty Pike it was down to Haweswater for a not so interesting walk along. We picked up the pace though and made it along in about 2 hours. Phoned for a campsite from Burns Banks, having not seen a red squirrel or Golden Eagle. From there it was through fields, over streams very sandstone trailey down to Shap, taking 2 hours. Not only did we discover our campsite was at the back of the pub like we thought, but also they had a party going on inside. We went across the road for fish n chip as Dad had said there was and ate…too much. But good black pudding. Back to the tent for a snooze + to feel part of the children’s game and then into the pub for a sleepy drink.
Breakie: porridge
Lunch: Everything
Tea: Fish, Chips, Black pudding, peas, curry sauce + a cuppa tea!
Hairstyle: Platt
Foot Rate: 5
Ankle: still very achy!

Distance = 16 miles
Height = >1000m!
Predicted Pikkachu = 35000
Actual Pikkachu = 37000
Today started wonderfully in Lakeland and continued less excitingly overland to Shap. I hope this is not symbolic of the whole C2C.

Day 6. Shap to Kirkby Stephen


Decent nights sleep behind the pub but woke to bitterly cold wind. Bought coffee to warm up and crossed the M6. We headed out and instantly realised we were in “Limestone Country”. Scenery was open and wide. Lakeland mountains behind and others in the distance. Not may fences or walls and good sign posts so we walked and walked. At the 7 miles stage, Claire realised she didn’t have Pikkachu. Slight retrace of steps required. Then Claire, me, Pikkachu + TP the mouse carried on through innumerable fields. Claire’s feet hurt but she soldiered on and even managed a few jokes – “ok, I’ll kiss myself then!” We kept on walking. At Smardale Bridge I dipped my feet in the water and the last five miles seemed to fly by. As we came into Kirkby Stephen we obeyed the signs directing us to Pennine View Campsite. WOW! £4.50 each but, Disco Toilets with free HOT showers. Heaven. While Claire was in the shower and I was babysitting the dinner, two Blue and Gold Macaws flew overhead. I thought I was having a Puerto flashback until Claire came back and said she had seen two red ones previously. Nice Chilli dinner and Bomber Ale in the pub. Talked to two oldies organising “Coast to Coast” in one day for Sunflower.
Distance = 20 miles
Height = 530m
Predicted Pikkachu = 43000
Actual Pikkachu =

I will take the chance to emphasise the 20 miles here. The land was vast, nothing like the lake, but still beautiful. Pikkachu had a detour + both he + I are grateful to Dave’s ‘Heroic rescue’. A really good, but long day.
Breakie: CAKE + COFFEE
Lunch: cold pies
Tea: Chilli + Rice
Hairstyle: low bun pigtails
Foot rating: 7 Ankle: 6
Ps Dave’s feet really stink rate 110.

Day 7. Kirkby Stephen to Keld


How lazy and pleasant was our morning? Got up at 8am (latest yet.), then had a really hot shower, pack and headed for town, where we spoilt ourselves with a full english. Picked up lunch and tea supplies for next couple of days and started our 13 miles walk. Along to Franks Bridge ?, along some fields then onto Hartley fell. Here the paths split and depending on month, depends on which path. We ignored this because our month was boring, this meant we got to see Nine Standard Stones + ring. We justified going this way as it hasn’t rained in months. Coming down we followed what we thought was the path, but my compass but managed to miss the track. This lead to about 3 miles on the road into Keld. Though still very pretty, it hurt under feet. Passed Wain-Waith force which we’d been looking at on the map for 7 days! Today was good and slow, no real rush and now I’m full of rice I intend to shower and be in bed by 9pm. Dave however will still be scrubbing the pans…oops! Mood today were up and down for both of us. But we’re both well with achy feet. We have now made it HALF WAY, which means…new map!
Breakie: Full English
Lunch: Dave sandwich etc
Claire – banana – still fall
Tea: Rice, toms, tuna and herbs Rice Pudding
Hairstyle: Half ponytail
Foot Rating – 7

Distance = 13 miles
Ascent = 550m
Predicted Pikkachu = 29000
Actual Pikkachu =

Day 8 – Keld to Reeth


Another clear night (-4c) meant that we woke to a cold start but the promise of another hot day. Last nights campsite was good and offered a genuinely luxury shower. Not an offer, were bottles of wine for £3.50. Anyway, we set off with my knee bandaged and Claire’s ankle giving her jip. Keld was Very pretty as we passed through and we tried to appreciate the mining hushes and many abandoned buildings (e.g. Crackpot Hall). However as time went on, the ‘Lazy wind’ dampened spirits a bit and Claire had a bad wedgy or something. We met a nice old couple who had done the C2C 25 years ago and Claire had the chance to indulge in a matter. The early afternoon was a bit of a slog and we both well ready for a cup of Yorkshire T and some cheese + cake in Reeth. We had planned to go on 3 miles to Marrick but couldn’t contact the camp site so, quite sensibly, we went for a couple of pints of Old Sheep by the fire in The Black Bull. Now we are on Reeth caravan park cooking bangers and mash and beans. Yummy.
Distance = 11 ½ miles
Height = 545m
Predicted Pikkachu = 26000
Actual Pikkachu = 31000

‘Lazy Wind’ meaning to lazy to go round, so it goes straight through you. My mood was up and down all afternoon + Dave did all he could to keep me in the spirit. The path down into Reeth was possible the worst path on the whole C2C so far. Tonight’s campsite doesn’t live up to the pretty town of Reeth, but it will do. Both Dave and I caught the sun again despite the cloud. Cake + Cheese is so good.
Breakie: porridge
Lunch: Porkpie, choccy ½ sandwich
Tea: Bangers, mash + beans
But best cake + cheese in Reeth
Hairstyle: low french plait to ponytail
Foot rating 7/8

Day 9 Reeth to Brompton on Swale.


Started off early this morning on our way to Richmond. Only a 10 ¼ mile day, so not too worried. We left the pretty town of Reeth and up the hill past the Priory at Marrick. A small place with some lovely houses. We then went along to Marske. A small place with some lovely houses. We then went along to Marske which shocked us as IT RAINED, well it spat if we’re honest, but finally got use of my waterproof trouser. We dropped into Richmond on the worst path so far on the coast to coast. In Richmond we visited as noted by many people the nicest public toilet for 100’s miles. We then asked in tourist information about campsites to find out there’s one in Brompton on Swale. So being told this was 3 miles away we headed off for the Weatherspoons for lunch. Fully Gorged we head to Co-op to buy food for evening and next day. Then at 5.30 started out to Brompton on Swale. 3 miles down track, check map. On Wainwrights 5 ½ miles to Brompton. 6m when got to Bridge and it felt like enough 2 miles walking about to find campsite. We got told about a bunk barn and opted for that, sofa’s, TV, kettle, heat. It was really cosy and made a lovely change.
Breakie: Malt loaf + snickers or mars
Lunch: Dave: Lamb burger
Claire: Chilli, chips, tortillas
Dinner: Ham + egg pie, Caesar salad, coleslaw.
Nice cups of tea.
Hairstyle: low ponytail
Foot Rating: 8 (by end of day)

Distance = 17.5 miles
Predicted Pikkachu = 4000
Actual Pikkachu = 40100
Today’s bad point à camera stopped working
Today’s good point à Family Fortunes

Day 10 Brompton-on-Swale to Ingleby Arncliffe (cross)

This was always going to be the longest, most boring slog of the C2C. We thought we’d softened it by last nights heroic march to Brompton and the luxurious night in a camping barn. However, it was the shoulder beating, toe-blistering ordeal we had expected. OUCH! We visited the grave of Henry Jenkins (died aged 169) in Bolton on swale. Then we just on going. 8 miles of continuous road: we took our boots off at lunch time- the smell of my feet masked (a bit) by the stench of a local pig farm. More walking. Weather was sunny. We were followed by chickens, licked by horses and stared at by rambunctious rams. Near the end we caught up by our lone C2C companion and are now camped behind the Blue Bell Inn. Distance = 17 ½ miles Height = Predicted Pikkachu = 38000 Actual Pikkachu = 33000

Day 11. Ingleby Arncliffe to Chop Gate via Clay Bank Top.

It was really hard to get up this morning, but when I did the aches and pains of the mornings before didn’t exist. Both Dave and I walked bandage free today, meaning buying expensive bandages paid off. We walked up into the forest, Dave feeling but enjoying the last (almost) bit of up. We went up to beacon hill and along following the Cleveland way, a well paved path. Though the route very up and down we really enjoyed it. A stop at the top of Carlton Bank for lunch, and when we dropped to the car park we found a café, though Dave would have missed the sign, but once told was on a direct march. After a cuppa with about 70 motor cyclists we head back to the path. A couple more peaks including today’s highest of 408m. We headed off to Wainstones and climbed our way through these, before dropping to the road, visiting a car park for ice cream and then walking 2 ½ miles to Chop Gate, to find a pub garden for camping, with beer + food inside. Breakie: Apple Turnovers Lunch: Pork pies, choccy Tea: Pub! Foot Rating: 4 Hair: don’t mention!

Distance = 15 miles Height = 775m Predicted Pikkachu = 33000 Actual Pikkachu = 33867 Good to get up on the hills again today and seemed to get stronger as the day went on.

Day 12 Chop Gate to Glaisdale.

We spent a disturbed night behind the pub in Chop Gate ( thought diner there was great). We had breakfast on a Twix and an apple each and followed directions given in the pub last night. One major diversion later and about 3-4 miles and we were back on the coast to coast walk at 10.45 with 17 miles still ahead. We zoomed past round hill (454m) and onto the Rosedale Ironstone railway. At a cracking pace we walked through the morning, our views ( and distractions) obscured by the haze. Our determination to proceed was so great that when Claire nearly trod on an adder, we paused only to take a picture. Finely, at 1pm and after 12 miles we staggered into the Lion Inn at Blakely 2 hours later we staggered out, our bellies full to bursting. Yum Yum. A deservedly busy pub. In the sun and strong wind we continued pausing to pee and, in my case a little more, on the wild moors. The afternoon wore on and on feet wore down as we made the 10 mile descent into Glaisdale. After another 2 mile wild goose chase for a campsite we finally get set up behind the Moon + Sixpence a pub currently closed due to bad times after foot + mouth. Distance = 24 miles Height = 460m Predicted Pikkachu = 51000 Actual Pikkachu = 48000

Breakie: Twix + Apple Lunch: me and Dave Canadian Steak Sandwich Dave Pud: Black forest puddle pudding Claire Pud: Texas Pecan pie + cream Tea: Shared chips Hair: can mention-washed it in the sink this morning! Foot rating: @ mo 8! Back to tent now for sleep!

Day 13. Glaisdale to Robin Hood’s Bay

Awoke to the sound of sheep round the tent, but despite it being pulled Dave didn’t appear to be worried for his home. Day continued with me trying to get some Pringles in before Dave had arms and second course of emergency chocolate. After a visit to the half sticky wet paint toilets we headed off on our last day. 19 miles ahead of us. We started slow aiming for Grosmont for a second breakfast at just 3 miles on. We walked through Limber Hill Wood with a 150m accent, 1st shock of the day. We passed through Egton and along Egton Manors Private road. We were greeted by an English gentleman and his wife. They showed us why people still have a stereotype of Englishmen. Finding out about melanistic pheasants from this man, Dave began his evolution lesson didn’t mention learnt most of it at A-level! Grosmont Breakfast was good, and of course after any meal comes another hill, on the road out. We crossed some fields and moor land following C2C signs and then dropped down to Littlebeck and into the forest. We sat down at the Hermitage (Dave, Claire) and ate our lunch at Falling Foss, a pretty waterfall, a little surprised after the lack of rain. In the car park we dumped our rubbish and bought ice cream, couldn’t wait till the seaside! We followed the road out and before it was even mentioned we’d decided to take the real route round. Up to Hawster through some horrible big campsites and finally could see the sea. Practically on top of it by then! We then had 4 miles down the coast, which was very pretty, with the sea right in and the eroding rocks forming cliffs. Stopped for a break and shelter from the wind, really cosy only ruined by Dave wetting himself! Robin Hood’s bay came as a surprise round the corner and as we dropped down into the newer part of town we started to look for a comfortable bed. We continued to the bottom through the small streets and down to the sea, a photo and a booted toe in the sea finished our 192 mile journey. A pint in the Wainwrights bar to sign the book didn’t help it feel finial. After we headed back up the hill for a B+B, once settled there and being told Dave could take his boots to the room, a 25 minute shower each was well in order. But Dave’s feet still smelled. We then went out to the pub for dinner trying but failing to get cash back. Back in our room by 9pm for some TV and for me one of the best nights sleep of the trip. (the other was in the bunk barn) Breakie 1: Pringles, Chocolate 2: Toast + Bakewell + coffee Lunch: corn beef sandwiches Tea: Beef burgers + chips Hair: clean in the evening. Very frizzy!

Distance = 19 miles Height = 500m Predicted Pikkachu = 41000 Actual Pikkachu = 44000

WE DID THE COAST TO COAST!

Total Distance: 205 Miles

Total Ascent: 6975 Metres (and the same of descent!)

[Day 14] Robin Hood’s Bay to Cheshire

Mmmm Real Bed. ALARM! Tea…shower, Full English. Didn’t have cash for B+B and weren’t expecting my mum to arrive until lunchtime so Claire and I took the bus (oooh! Very fast and scary.) to Whitby to find a cash machine. As soon as we got there, Ma phoned to say she’d arrived in the Bay! We had to wait for the bus back to R.H’s.Bay so we walked the harbour and visited the cook monument. As my mum had been down to the beach already, we didn’t hang about in the bay. We stopped at The Hole of Horcum and then again for lunch before continuing home. Distance = 160 miles Height = ? Predicted Pikkachu = 11000 Actual Pikkachu = 6000